F I X S T U F F
“Cruising” = Boat repair in exotic locations with no parts
Lessons learned and what I wish I had
Plus other gadgets that have proven worthwhile
This is a blog entry I plan to revisit and update over time, so I’ll try to add some dates to the comments. Please feel free to add your ideas or in the comments at the bottom
Feb 13, 2023
I just completed a Marine DIesel class in Annapolis, MD at the Annapolis School of Seamanship which was taught by Scott Segal from AR Marine Diesel Service. Highly recommend Scott and the class by the way. Textbook is Nigel Calder’s “Marine Diesel Engines” 3rd edition. This forms the basis for the list below, but I’m also including my own edits over time. I’ll try to link to the actual tools I use when possible.
Whenever possible, buy stainless. It costs more, but on a boat, everything else will rapidly be a mess.
The list below is what I carry. Yes I know how to use and have used everything on the list, sometimes in anger. No, you can’t borrow them.
Wrenches
SAE Combination wrench set 1/4” to 1” (note link is only 5/16” to 3/4”)
Metric combination wrench set 5mm to 19mm (note link is only 8mm to 19mm)
Adjustable wrench set: small, med and large 14”+
Set of metric and SAE line wrenches (tubing wrenches / flare nut)
Allen wrench sets (SAE and Metric). Spare kit I use also.
Socket Sets
Torque ratchet with deep sockets that fit crankshaft, fuel injectors, motor mounts, any other large bolts
A digital torque ratchet can also be nice backup
SAE 6-point sockets 1/4” to 15/16” (note link misses 15/16”)
Metric 6-point sockets 4mm - 19mm (note link is only 8-19mm)
Screw Drivers and Nut Drivers
Screwdriver kit with flat, #1, #2, #3. I supplement the kit with a variety of extra of these (which also fit the other drivers below). I believe this is an upgraded stainless version of the kit which I’d highly recommend.
SAE and Metric nut driver set (also fit into screwdriver kit above and flex nut driver below)
Flexible nut drivers for hose clamps: 7mm, 1/4, 5/16 (three common hose clamp sizes)
Pliers
Linesman pliers
Channel lock / tongue and groove / water pump pliers
Slip joint pliers
Vice Grips / locking pliers: Needle nose and regular
Needle nose and bent nose
Snap ring pliers
Impeller puller pliers
Electrical
Side cutter pliers / wire cutters
Wire stripper
Wire crimper
Digital auto-ranging multi-meter with spare batteries
Clamp on ampmeter
High amp “jumper cables” and low amp “alligator clips” jumper wire sets
Hydrometer
Brass wire brush set (toothbrush and large brush)
Assorted wire crimp connectors and small spare spool tinned wire
Dielectric grease
Power Probe: PP319FT @powerprobe.com
Heat shrink tubing variety pack and spool if you are doing a lot of electrical work.
Label gun with tube labels and regular flat labels
Remote starter switch (OTC 3650 or Actron CP7854)
Extension cord
Personal Protection Equipment
Everything-proof heavy gloves (warm, sealing, solvent-proof): SHOWA 282-02 TEMRES Breathable, Waterproof, Insulated - PU Coated Gloves. Note these run very small, I wear XL with no glove liners, XXL if wearing a thin liner for extra warmth when sailing in winter.
Earplugs
Impact resistant glasses
Magnifying glasses (with LED lights are great)
Tyvek suits
Thin chemical resistant gloves designed to withstand solvents (“Thicksters” or other ~8mm Nitrile)
Respirator with paint/chemical cartridges
Speciality Tools
Multitool. I loved the Juice, but it’s discontinued. Now carry the P2 Free when I’m doing maintenance. Else I just carry the best sailing knife ever made.
Hook and pick set
Telescoping mirror
Telescoping magnet
Telescoping grab tool set (various lengths)
XL screwdriver or small pry bar
Folding bucket or crushable silicon bowl to catch fluid
Jam nut valve adjustment tool set (eg: Astro) sized for motor(s)
Valve feeler gauge set: recommend the “bent” versions to get into crampted spaces
Ball peen hammer
Timing light
Compression gauge (engine-specific injector adapter, often sold in a kit)
Measure and Test
Infrared temperature gun
Coolant tester
Tape measure
Cut
Best sailing knife ever. (Myerchin TF377: Gen 2, Titanium Crew)
Sandpaper
Metal file(s): small, large, round, flat
Folding hacksaw
Metric and SAE tap and die sets
Multiple sets of drill bits
Hole saw kit
Stick
Duct Tape (universal repair tool). Buy the good stuff.
Liquid Teflon thread sealant (screw things together that you want to not leak)
Electrical tape (I actually hate this stuff)
Zip ties (better than handcuffs!) and zip tie mounts
Locktite thread locker: Permanent (Red 272) and Removable (Blue) (242/243) (Screw stuff together that you want to stay together for a long time)
Anti-Sieze: Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant (Screw stuff together that you want to be able to take apart later)
Gasket sealant: Locktite Aviation Gasket Sealer #1525607
Silicon self fusing tape (only sticks to itself, no residue)
Many small packs of JB Weld. I prefer the “Kwik”. These are largely single use.
3M 3000 (sealer, never ever use silicone!!), 4000 UV (semi-removable adhesive) 5200 (never comes apart)
Unstick
Grease Gun - depending on boat. At least small tube of SuperLube grease
CRC / WD-40 / CorrosionX / FluidFilm (Spray on anything metal, frequently)
Liquid dish soap (also doubles as water soluble lube for things like impellers)
MareLube and Tef45 or Tef-Gel, especially on bolts that are dissimilar metals but anything that should move: valves, pumps, etc
Brake Cleaner (get gunk off tough things)
3M Adhesive remover (get gunk off of delicate things)
Gasket scraper
Bare Minumum Spares
Offshore should plan for more extensive failure self-recovery (spare starter, water pump, fuel pump, alternator, hoses, etc)
Air filter, if used
Raw water impeller and gasket/O-ring (OEM)
Heat exchanger end cap gasket set. Woven graphite lasts longest but are fragile prior to install.
Belts (2 of each type for each engine)
Replacement zincs
Variety pack of crush washers
Oil filters OEM (multiple for each engine)
Secondary fuel filters OEM (multiple for each engine)
Primary fuel filter elements (eg: Raycor). Many. This is what clogs first and often when you get bad fuel. Usually ~20 micron.
Engine Oil - enough for 2 complete oil changes, at least CI-4.
Transmission oil - often same as engine oil
Engine coolant sufficient for 2 flushes. Recommend Shell Rotella ELC NF (Extended Life Nitrite Free)
Variety pack of spare hose that fits your engine
Power Tools
Drill with right angle attachment: M12 Installation Drill/Driver. This is the best drill ever.
Vibration sander / cutter / multitool: M12 Oscillating Multi-Tool
Laser level: M12 Green 360° 3-Plane Laser Kit. Nothing in a boat is ever straight or level.
Metal cutter: M12 Cut Off Tool Cuts anchor chain and fixed rigging like butter
Jig Saw: M12 Jigsaw
Vacuum: M12 Compact Vacuum
Dremel: M12 Brushless Rotary Tool
Rangefinder: Vortex Viper HD3000 (How close is that rock?)
Laser Distance measuring tool: Laser Distance Meter (What’s the height of this rigging?)
Endoscope: DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope (tech changes frequently so check whatever updated version is hot now)
IR Camera: FLIR ONE Pro
Heat gun
Headlamp with spare batteries: https://www.fenixlighting.com/collections/headlamps I have several Fenix HM65R-DT with a red filter epoxied to the “flood” lens. for a dedicated red light at night. I’m a fan of the USB-C charging, waterproof, stupidly bright, 18650 rechargeables last forever but you can use CR123A in a pinch.
LED lights with many spare batteries: I’m mostly M12, so I use floodlight https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/2367-20 and spotlight https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/2353-20.
OhSh!t Kit
Lots of plugs of various sizes. I like Forespar Sta-Plug and mini Sta-Plug.
Various sizes water seal tape
Water seal paste. Recommend several small tubs versus a huge one as it reacts rapidly with air or moisture.
Bigger tubes of JB-KwikWeld. Sets in 6 minutes which can be an eternity but also a miracle. Sticks to almost anything, holds 3127 PSI and 300ºF.
Epoxy paste. For when you need to make a little sculpture.
The Metal Cutter listed above under power tools lives in a waterproof case with a battery, in case rigs need to be modified in a hurry. I cut through my stainless backstay in about 4 seconds. (we were replacing the backstay and the boat was on the hard, no drama)